Sewing Inspiration: more Shabby Apple

As promised in my previous post, here are more Shabby Apple inspiration dresses... (if you're reading this on the home page, don't forget to click "Read More" to see the rest!)

Tea Time - Vogue 8766

Machu Picchu - Burda 7494

(I have this pattern, can't wait to make it!)

Nouvelle Mode #15 - Butterick 6582

(Butterick has the WORST line drawings-- I can't believe I had to use the pattern cover.)

Co-Ed Skirt - BurdaStyle "Kasia"

Pineapple Princess - Simplicity 2282 OR New Look 6124
(I have this Simplicity pattern as well. I didn't realize until I saw this dress that I wished the peplum went all the way around the front.)

Please Reissue: Simplicity listened!

Seems like we've gone several new pattern releases without Simplicity putting out a new re-issue of a vintage pattern.

Well, it seems they read my first "Please Reissue" post, because they've put out a new 1940s dress pattern... and it's AWESOME looking! They even styled the model with victory rolls!

Source: simplicity.com via Elisha on Pinterest

Simplicity 1777 is a sweet 1940s dress with gathers down the front and long sleeve or three-quarter sleeve options:

Simplicity circa 1943 Misses' retro dress includes front inset with V or jewel neckline with button detail, front bodice ruching and pleated front slim skirt. Dress can be made with long or 3/4 sleeves. Simplicity archives vintage pattern.

The red and black contrast one is a little Star Trek looking for me, but I'm loving it made up in the floral like the brown one on the model. I can't wait to buy Simplicity 1777!

Just on an aside, nothing else from the Simplicity Early Autumn 2012 Pattern Collection really jumped out at me... what about you? It's probably a good thing, my pattern stash is overflowing as it is.

Sewing Inspiration: Shabby Apple

Even though I'd seen it mentioned around the blogosphere, I'd never visited online clothing retailer Shabby Apple. I thought it was just another "The Shabby/Lettered/Tattered/Old/Rustic Cottage/Nest/Home/Farmhouse Blog" or something.

I finally clicked on one of their ads the other day and was pleasantly surprised with their cute dresses. While most were out of my price range, I liked that they went up to my size-- as long as I were to order a dress that goes by their "Fits Generously" size chart.

Alas, it seems like they may be phasing out that size chart in favor of more petite sizing. So I guess I'll just have to stick with them for sewing inspiration... something I found plenty of on their site! In fact, there were quite a few dresses that I knew instantly the pattern I would use were I to make up a Shabby Apple inspired dress...

So many that I don't think I'll be able to include them all in one post. But here's a few to get started. Please let me know if you make any of these, and send me pics!

Academia - BurdaStyle "Danielle" OR Vogue 8280

Bernini - also looked like a Danielle to me

Block Party - McCall's 6460 OR Colette Macaron

Che Bella - McCall's 6558

Please reissue more...

I shouldn't be complaining, really.

Us vintage fans are lucky that the big four pattern companies re-issue patterns at all. But I've noticed a certain... propensity... of said pattern companies to mostly stick to the slight variations of the same full-skirted 50's dress. Even the ones they label circa the forties seem to have the same silhouette.

Don't get me wrong, I love the full-skirted 50s dress as much as the next gal. And clearly, so do most other sewers, as they're pretty much the most popular pattern reissue I see sewn up again and again.

Or is the 50s dress sewn up so much because that's the most easily obtained vintage/retro pattern re-issue? It's like the chicken or the egg question.

So I'm calling on the big four to add more variety to their pattern re-issues. Something besides dresses, jackets, dresses, suits, and oh yeah, dresses. And something more than a bunch of 50s, with a couple of 30s, 40s, and 60s thrown in for good measure.

I suppose you're wondering why I just don't do like everyone else in the online sewing world wander on down to my local thrift shop and pick up a vintage pattern. That's all well and good if I'm looking for a 90s patterns fit for Elaine Benes (I complain a LOT about my local thrift stores, in case you're not a regular reader). Or you may be wondering why I don't buy what I'm looking for on eBay or Etsy. And I tell you because they either don't have my size, or the pattern costs too much, or both. In some cases, the pattern maker didn't even originally make my size. And as for grading-- I don't want to spend 15 bucks on a pattern only to have to adjust it.

And as long as I'm on the subject, why doesn't McCall's have any reissues? Two others under the McCall's umbrella do (Vintage Vogue and Butterick Retro). And while Simplicity is the only one who's at least provided us with some fun pants and tops in it's Simplicity Retro reissues (in fact, they currently only have one 50s pattern and it's not a full-skirted one), it's total number of retro offerings are scarce at best.

Of course, I'm not talking about the indy brands. There are a few indy brands that specialize in new patterns modeled after vintage looks, including Wearing History and Decades of Style. And it's widely accepted that Colette Patterns are contemporary clothes with vintage flair. If you're new to sewing, the "Big Four" I've been referring to are McCall's, Vogue, Butterick, (Kwik Sew is under their umbrella as well), and Simplicity (which includes New Look and Burda). Burda does have a small handful of reissues as well.

So, at the risk of sounding like I'm giving a 4-H presentation... in summary, the major pattern conglomerates should include more variety in their re-issues because of...

• Cost - Hey, it's no secret that Simplicity, McCall's, and Butterick can be nabbed for $.99 to $1.99 a piece during sales at a certain chain, while sale Vogues can run you $3.99. Real vintage patterns, on the other hand, can sometimes command a hefty price on eBay, Etsy, flea markets, and other outlets.
• Size availability - Am I the only one who can never find vintage patterns in my size? Seems like they're mostly in the 32-36 bust range. Petite girls and fuller girls alike enjoy vintage styles too. Not to mention, we're larger than we were back then. And I don't mean fatter. Each generation gets taller as well.
• Availabilty in general - There were only so many patterns made back in the day-- before they became "vintage". There isn't an endless supply of patterns from the 40s, 50s, and 60s, and they're bound to become more and more scarce. Re-issues are like history books come to life, enabling individuals to experience fashion from the past.

So, I had planned on making this a single post with a list of specific patterns and styles I wished the biggies would reissue. But I just kept thinking of more and more patterns, and decided to make this a series on my blog. There's one specific pattern I'll be discussing at length, that when I asked Simplicity's Facebook (that's a hint) to about reissuing it, tons of people chimed in and agreed.

Are there any specific patterns, styles, or eras you'd like to see reissued? Remember, if you go too far back in time, some of those patterns are available in the costume section as opposed to the various "Retro" or Vintage" sections.

Maternity patterns: are they a good idea, and where to buy them?

I've already said that sewing is realy only economical if you're (or the person you're sewing for is) going to remain the same size for a while, and the garment will see years of use.

Still, there's something appealing about sewing your own maternity clothes... at least for me. Being able to choose fun patterns, and lengthen what needs lengthening. So I've been mentally cataloguing companies offering maternity patterns.

But first; if you're not a mom and don't plan on becoming one, I realize this post is about as fun as watching grass grow. So I promise posts like this will be few and far between. Further, I'm not pregnant now, so I'm not going to be going all boring-blogging-only-about-my-baby on you. Although the baby I already do have is the best baby ever. Just sayin'.

I do hope to maybe have another baby in the future, and the problems I had last time I was pregnant were the same ones I always have with RTW. Pants too short, sleeves too short, this too wide and that too snug. You know.

But. Just nine months of wear, or less than that actually, seems like too short a time to put a bunch of work into making a garment. I'd probably rather be sewing for the new or current baby, or nesting, or whatever. Not to mention the cost involved with buying maternity patterns and enough fabric to stretch around that expanding girth. My last preg belly was huh-yuuuuge!

So even though I won't be sewing an entire maternity wardrobe if I become pregant again, I'd probably like to me-make a couple of pieces.

Here's a list of maternity pattern resources! Did I leave any out? Have you made any? Do you think maternity sewing is worthwhile?

BUTTERICK

Source: butterick.mccall.com via Elisha on Pinterest

Of the "big four" pattern companies, they're the ones who seemed to have maternity the longest in recent memory. I was going to complain how kinda boring theirs were, maybe even somewhat dated, until I went to the site just now and saw the one I pinned above. Ruching is pretty typical when it comes to maternity wear, but pretty cute nonetheless!

Butterick's selection was limited to just two patterns and labeled simply "maternity" until recently. Sometime last year they added a second, seperate section called "suitable for maternity", which for some reason has just two of their now four regular maternity patterns, plus some of the more loose-fitting regular patterns. Which I must say, does NOT make me want to buy said regular patterns for non-maternity use. I mean, what non-pregnant person wants to wear a dress that's been deemed "suitable for maternity"?

Butterick Maternity & Suitable for Maternity

McCALL'S

Source: mccallpattern.mccall.com via Elisha on Pinterest

McCall's doesn't have any maternity-specific patterns, but added the same "suitable for maternity" section that Butterick did at around the same time. McCall's section does denote, however, that "Hem adjustment may be necessary."

Again, not too sure I'd wear these regular patterns for normal use. The one I pinned above is great... if you'd like to channel your inner pregnant Nicole Richie.

McCall's Suitable for Maternity

KWIK SEW

Source: kwiksew.mccall.com via Elisha on Pinterest

Kwik Sew offers the standard, basic, maternity fare and is easy to get your hands on if you live near a Hancock Fabrics.

Kwik Sew Maternity

BURDASTYLE

Source: burdastyle.com via Elisha on Pinterest

Burda Style Magazine's popular website BurdaStyle.com is another one I don't remember having maternity patterns until very recently.

The handful of maternity pattern downloads they offer are pretty great; basic maternity staples that, if made properly, could be extremely stylish-- which is just how you want to feel when you're heavily pregnant. And while their downloadable patterns aren't readily available during $.99-$1.99 sales like the above pattern-makers, Burdastyle's maternity patterns are reasonably priced in the $5 range.

Burda Style Magazine/BurdaStyle.com Maternity

BURDA

Burda has a line of already printed patterns as well, which are easily available at Jo-Ann and other retailers.

Burda actually has one of the more decent-sized selections of maternity patterns when it comes to the major pattern retailers, and certainly the best selection under the Simplicity Creative Group umbrella. That's because Simplicity and New Look don't currently offer maternity patterns.

Burda's patterns tend to look cute in the thumbnails on the Simplicity website. Then you click on them and they... don't. Their maternity patterns are no exception. Case in point, the pattern on the left above, which, once I clicked on it, turned out to be some sort of a belly-baring maternity crop top over a satin jumpsuit. If you say so.

The one on the right, a bonus pattern image to illustrate my point (plus I was too embarrassed to actually pin these to Pinterest), it's likewoahmaternitygeniepants. Not the most flattering look on anyone, let alone a swollen-ankled pregnant lady. Note to Burda: it's not the mommies who need the diaper allowance.

Still, don't let these patterns fool you. Burda offers a couple of great maternity basics, including a winter coat and a maxi dress. At least that's how the thumbnails look...

Burda Maternity Wear

MEGAN NIELSEN

Source: megannielsen.com via Elisha on Pinterest

Fear not, Colette, Sewaholic, and Pattern Runway fans! There's an indie pattern company for the pregnant set, too!

Megan also has some of the absolute best DIY maternity wear tutorials on the web on her sister blog, DIY Maternity.

DIY AND UP-CYCLING

Source: doityourselfdivas.blogspot.com via Elisha on Pinterest

There are a whole host of maternity wear how-to's online... in fact, too many to list. Megan Nielsen's site that I mentioned above is a great starting point. You could also check Pinterest or simply Google "maternity tutorials". Some of my favorites include the various maxi skirt tutorials and ruched T-shirts. There are also various methods to alter non-maternity patterns to include a wider front and longer hem.

VINTAGE PATTERNS

Source: etsy.com via Elisha on Pinterest

Just because some of the big pattern companies don't currently offer maternity patterns, doesn't mean they never did. The usual suspects, Etsy and eBay, are great places to start if you'd like to purchase some of these.

Colette Sorbetto: purple floral

Here's yet another Sorbetto.

The black floral making up the main part came from Gramma's stash and is probably from the early 90s. I thought adding another floral for the bias tape would make it more contemporary... but to me it looks like I made another old lady Sorbetto!

Not that there's a problem with that, I'm an old lady at heart.

I bought the purple stuff I made the bias tape from at WalMart, when I went there to pick up the Thomas and Friends fabric. I'd already been planning to make this one, and when I saw the purple stuff, I thought it would be perfect!

...it ended up a little off on some of the colors. But, since I made the bias tape just an inch and a half wide (as opposed to two inches on the Thomas the Train Sorbetto), the two work OK together. You may notice the purple strip down the center of the pleat. I had a lot less of the black stuff than the 1.5 yards called for in the Sorbetto, but I knew there was still enough to squeeze a top from it. So instead of cutting the front on the fold, I just cut it twice in two different spots. To stitch it together, I put a strip of the contrast in between, but only decided to do so after I cut it into a 1.5 wide strip. The Sorbetto is still a little wide in the hips for me, but I've gotten it to the point that it fits much better than my first Sorbetto. I'm basically cutting a 16 down the sides and at the top shoulder seam, while leaving the armscyce, neckline, and length an 18 (or longer). The darts I put at size 16.
1990's Floral Tank
Pattern: Colette Sorbetto (free)
Materials: Purple floral quilting cotton (I don't remember what I paid for this half-yard, but I think it was ~$6/yd - WalMart), black & purple floral fashion fabric (free - Gramma)
Total Cost: Under $8, probably around $5 or less

Colette Sorbetto: Thomas & Friends

This is my second go at Colette's Sorbetto.

Yes, it is Thomas the Tank Engine, and yes, I am a 31-year-old woman.

Normally, my frugal ways would have me turn away from a top I can only wear once (my son's birthday party). But I actually justified the time and money put into this top by deciding that I'll also be that nerdy mom who wears it to Day out With Thomas in the Santa Cruz Mountains later this summer, whenever we take the baby to Sonoma Train Town, and when we get around to riding the Skunk Train with my in-laws. Heck, I've never ridden the Niles Canyon Railway, and it's in my own backyard-- maybe it's time I took the kiddo there in my Thomas shirt, too. Are there any other train excursions in the greater Bay Area/NorCal I left out?

Onto the top: I cut a size smaller on the sides and shoulder this time, but left it an 18 on the length, armholes, and neckline. It fits much, much better than the Granny Shorts Sorbetto, but there's still room for improvement. I know what many people like about the Sorbetto is the hip room, but even though I'm plus-sized, I find the hips too roomy and will cut it straighter down the sides next time.

For bias tape I used the stuff I intended to be quilt binding here, so the exposed bias facing is pretty wide and very stiff... it kinda makes the neckline and armhole sit up strangely, which I don't mind. What bothers me more about the bias tape is how the polka dots are just kinda a couple of rows here and there. Oh, well.

Oh yeah, I also sewed the bias tape down either side of the pleat, like flat piping.

Only two more Thomas posts to go-- I promise.

Thomas & Friends Tank Top
Pattern: Colette Sorbetto (free)
Materials: Thomas & Friends quilting cotton (~$6/yd - WalMart), red polka dot fabric (free - Gramma)
Total Cost: Under $10, probably around $8

Before & After: Grandma shorts Sorbetto

I've jumped onto the Sorbetto bandwagon by making one from a pair of Granny shorts. Literally.

These started out as a pair my late Gramma's shorts... and basically ended up as one of her shirts.

I was hoping that the yellow bias tape and contemporary pattern would make the shirt look "younger", but to me it really does look like something my Gramma would've worn. Not that there's anything wrong with that, I'm still wearing it-- and I even got a compliment on it, but it was one of those that she might as well have said "wow, that's some top you got there!" compliments.

I'll probaby wear it a couple of times more. Which may be all it lasts-- I noticed a couple of small holes AFTER I'd already cut the pattern and decided to sew it anyway.

As for the Sorbetto pattern, I'm making it again, but I'm cutting it smaller. My bust is 45", so I followed the pattern's advice, which says:

Colette Patterns have less ease than many other patterns to provide a closer, more tailored fit. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size.

Yeaaaah, not so much. I made the largest size and was swimming in it. I had to take it in on the sides, and even then my husband was calling it my "short and wide" top. I could stand to go down one or even two sizes in it.

NOT that I'm complaining about a totally awesome free pattern.

Granny Shorts Sorbetto

Pattern: Colette Sorbetto

Pattern alterations: smaller pleat to fit my fabric and lengthened slightly

Fabric: Gramma's shorts (free)

Notions: Yellow bias tape (.50 cents - thrifted)

Time to make: an afternoon

Total cost: ~.50 cents

Pattern Haul: Vintage Vogue and Retro Butterick

Here's the latest round of patterns I purchased; all reproductions of vintage patterns and not one contemporary pattern!

I did a little research before this pattern sale and it seems that $3.99 may be as cheap as Vogue goes at Jo-Ann, so I bit the bullet and bought some of those. And even though I expressed regret at not buying certain Butterick patterns last time Butterick was on sale, those weren't the ones I bought. That's because they were $1.99 this time, and even though that's a huge discount, it's still twice as much as the 99 cent sale!

From left to right in the image above, these are the patterns I purchased in my latest pattern haul:

• Butterick B5281
• Butterick B5209
• Vogue V2960
• Vogue V2787
• Vogue V1044
• Vogue V8728

Most of these are labeled advanced... tell me, am I courting trouble with these purchases?

McCalls 6433: Anthropologie's Varvara Maxi Dress

Maxi dresses are pretty much my summer staple, so it stands to reason I'd want to continue wearing them through the winter-- even though I've read that the winter maxi should be "avoided like the plague".

Anthropologie has this one I'm fancying: the Varvara Maxi Dress. And when I spotted McCalls 6433, I knew that if I were to attempt to make a Varvara inspired dress, M6433 would be the pattern.

And, as I've already mentioned, McCalls is conveniently the next 99-cent pattern sale at JoAnn. All I need to find now is the right Kilim, Southwestern, or Pendelton-blanket inspired heavy knit that won't break the bank. Have you seen any?

Pattern Haul: Simplicity on sale for 99 cents!

Say what you will about Jo-Ann (I've read the Yelp reviews, yikes!), the chain fabric store really throws down on the pattern sales.

Last time, it was Butterick for 99 cents, now it's Simplicity (through Monday, October 10th for the Columbus Day Sale).

And unlike the Butterick sale, I was determined to have no regrets-- I maxed out the 10-pattern limit with the following patterns:

• Simplicity 2174
• Simplicity 2180
• Simplicity 2215
• Simplicity 2282
• Simplicity 2363 (Paging Mrs. Roper!)
• Simplicity 2444
• Simplicity 2702
• Simplicity 2219
• Simplicity 2588
• Simplicity 4044 (Not pictured-- I only had space for nine patterns in my montage! It's one of the 1940s "retro" suit patterns.)

You know the drill, let me know if you're tried any of these and have any tips for me, and stay tuned for the dresses I actually make out of these. I'm a little worried about the Project Runway Patterns. They only go up to size 20 and my post-pregnancy bust is an embarrassing 45"!  I'll put those in the "way later" pile.

Next up on the pattern sale front: McCalls will be 99 cents at Jo-Ann October 13th through the 15th. And I've got a thrift haul to show you too.

Pan Am costume: there's still time before Halloween!

I'd love to be a Pan Am gal for Halloween, but I'm not too sure I'd want to go the "sexy stewardess" route. Nope, as the mood board below indicates, I'm thinking more along the lines of "Christina Ricci jet-setting vintage bombshell" as seen on ABC's Pan Am.

Just like there was a vintage explosion on the Halloween following the debut of AMC's Mad Men, we're sure to see plenty of flight attendants this Halloween.

My sewing machine is still in storage because we're still on the ranch, but it's not too late for you to wear a Pan Am costume on my behalf! I've done some of the work for you, choosing easy-to-find patterns with pencil skirts and jackets (so you don't have to buy two separate patterns).

1. Simplicity 2154 - Obviously this "Simplicity Retro" pattern is from the right era, but the fit of the jacket is slightly off for the stewardess costume. It's not as tailored, and is looser around the hips. But made from the right fabric, it's sure to look authentic to the era.
2. Butterick 5147 - Has a pencil skirt and a fitted jacket, with the correct length of sleeves. But the collar is all wrong.
3. Butterick 3037 - Has the four buttons, just like the show, a close fit, and the perfect collar. The skirt and sleeves are too long, but that could easily be fixed. This is probably the pattern I would choose.
4. Royal Blue Suiting - $5.75/yd from Fashion Fabrics Club.
5. Pan Am Bag - These are all over the Internet thanks to the show, this one is $89 from Brookstone.

Don't forget the white gloves, retro-fab shoes, and pill box hat! Here's Threadbanger's tut on "How to Make a Pill Box Hat":


Have you made a Pan Am Halloween Costume? I'd love to see pictures and hear what pattern you used (if you used one).

Pattern Haul: Butterick on sale for 99 cents!

Butterick patterns were on sale for just 99 cents at Jo-Ann last week! They were limit 10, but the hubs and the LO were with me, so I only walked away with four...

These four:
Butterick 5564

Butterick 5454

Butterick 5451

AND! The controversial Butterick 4790

If you're not familiar, B4790 is one of Butterick's "Retro" patterns; a remake of a vintage one. But most reviews of this pattern you'll find on the Interwebs complain that the update is not true to the 1950's silhouette; it's looser and baggier. But I love the dress and at just .99, I thought I'd give the pattern a shot anyway.

Did I make good choices? Kinda overdid it on the wrap dresses, didn't I? And I kind of regret not buying B5674. And Butterick's 5731, just to have, maybe to alter into a non-wedding dress. Darnit! More regret even as I'm typing this.

Have you tried any of these, and if so, do you have any tips for me? I'd appreciate it!

Oh yeah, and stay tuned for the dresses I actually make out of these.

Butterick 5731: Kate Middleton's Wedding Dress

A dress in my Facebook feed caught my eye today. Butterick posted a wedding dress pattern that is clearly inspired by what will arguably end up being 2011's most famous wedding dress.

While the description for Butterick B5731 does not explicity say it's meant to copy K-Mid's Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, there's no denying it. Butterick even styled their model with a tiara and a similar bouquet.

There are some differences; Butterick 5731 has some weird flappy bustle that I'd leave off were I to sew this, and it's absent the long train that the Sarah Burton dress has.

While I don't usually condone plagiarism, I think in this case it puts the royal dress within reach for us commoners. It's not like you're going to the Berresyessa Flea Market and buying an obvious Louis Vuitton pleather knockoff. This is a sewing pattern in which you, or the dress maker you hire, is required to do all the work, and you have the option to buy the most expensive "Peau De Soie" or the cheapest satin. You can make it any color you choose, and there are even cup size options.

The absolute best part in my opinion: it's a Butterick, so you can likely snatch it up during a Jo-Ann sale for .99 to 1.99.